中秋琉球“追风记”

I almost forgot to record this trip until the end of the year. I open the gallery of this trip from time to time. It was overall unforgettable experience but it still left with some regret.
这篇游记几乎是被遗忘了,一直拖到半年后,还是没有完成。受picasa api退役的影响,相册选照片遇到了非常大的麻烦。说回旅程,虽然总体并不是很顺,但也算是难忘。

I planned this trip one month before departure. I almost prepared nothing but some diving trips in Okinawa, coz I am so expecting to see the pure and gorgeous ocean in Okinawa.
是次旅程实际上是在出发前一个月才草草计划的,完全是由于看见朋友在Instagram上发的照片,冲着冲绳潜水去的。

The flight is not direct to Okinawa. I also planned to stay in Taiwan for a couple of days.
由于是从台湾转机去冲绳,于是中途计划了几天在台南。

The trip was : Hong Kong -> Kaohsiung City-> Tainan City (Stayed for 3 days) -> Kaohsiung City -> Okinawa, Japan (Stayed for 6 days) -> Kaohsiung City (Stayed for 1 day) -> Hong Kong.
整个行程大致上是:香港 -> 高雄 -> 台南逗留3天 -> 高雄 -> 冲绳逗留6天 -> 再回高雄住1天 -> 回香港

Tainan City 台南

Taiwan is full of yummy. Lots of young couples and backpackers like going to Tainan City to explore lanes for unique taste.
台湾是出了名的美食多,尤以夜市小吃闻名,甚至有各式各样新奇的吃法。 台湾的年轻情侣和背包客们都爱去台南走街串巷,寻找独特的美味。

The place I lived in Tainan is called ‘U.I.J Hotel & Hostel’. This hotel was started early 2018. The interior design is industrial style.
我再台南居住的旅馆叫做“友爱街旅馆”。 于18年年初投入运营,室内的设计走工业风,很有网红打卡feel。住客们无一不花上好些时间在这里拍照。

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This room key is pretty interesting.
下面这个是房卡,没错,房卡是绑在一本书上面的,颇有文艺气息,但我绝对不可能去读这本书的。

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It was comfortable but the only downside is I can’t get used to the air(or smell) inside the room, that made me tearing when I was laying on the bed.
这间旅馆总体感觉还是很舒服的,但唯一的缺点是房间里面似乎有挥之不去的甲醛味。每每晚上冲完凉睡在床上的时候,眼睛会不停流眼泪,想必是甲醛吧?

The best way of exploring Tainan is renting a motorcycle. But it was regretful that I didn’t bring my driving license. So I could not rent one. I had to switch to walking and cycling mode.
在台南最好的闲逛方式便是骑机车,但由于租用机车需要提供驾照,很后悔当时没有带上驾照。无奈只好切换成暴走模式。

The actual ‘adventure’ started with ‘Du Hsiao Yueh Dandan Noodles’. This is the HQ store in 16th Zhongzheng Road, West Central District.
从到达高雄后直奔台南到安顿好,用了不少时间,假期算是从“度小月担担面”真正地开始。 中正路这家是创始店(第一家店)。

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I had been sleeping for 2-3 hours the day before. But I was still energetic for the whole day. I walked a long way to every corner that was new to me. The pace in Tainan is even slower than Taipei. I believe staying there for a few months will definitely slower down my pace.
头一天其实只睡了2-3小时,但我这一天却依旧精力充沛。我走遍了每一个对我而言新鲜的角落,台南的生活步伐比台北还要慢上不少。我想或许在这里呆上一段时间,我的步伐也会慢下来。

Walking around the lanes without being bothered by work. Time drained too fast. I did only two things in the three days: Eating and Pressing the shutter.
走街串巷而不被工作打扰,时间流淌得似乎有些太快了。实际上这三天里我只是专注在做两件事:吃和按下快门

You can see the young generations driving motorcycles everywhere. There are millions of cafés, desserts and drinks stores in the lanes. You always do not need to worry about what to eat. Just walk in with hunger, and come out with 5 kilos heavier.
你几乎能在任何地方能看见年轻人都骑着摩托车,在街头巷尾,有着无数个café、甜品以及饮品铺。我想或许你永远也不用担心吃什么,总有一款适合你。扶墙而进,扶墙而出。

Pig blood curd with intestines and fried pig blood curd.
猪血大肠以及炒猪血

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Cantaloupe and fruity ice. 哈密瓜水果冰 (★★★★★) Taicheng Fruit Shop 泰成水果店

I believe this fruity ice is essentially designed for couples as I feel it is too much for a solo customer like me.
我坚信这份量的水果冰是为小情侣而设计的,一人吃实在是有些撑破肚皮

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Sliced Ice with Taro balls 芋圆棉花冰

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Milky and Matcha Tofu with red beans 顶级赞的牛奶抹茶红豆豆腐 (★★★★★) 懷舊小棧

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Some weird stuff (I forget what it is called) 一些奇怪的我忘记名字的家伙(鱼糠?)

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Original coffee. 原创咖啡

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Da Tung Night Market. It opens on Mondays, Tuesdays and Fridays. I went there on the first day I arrived, but the only thing that welcomed me was darkness. I rode a bicycle to get there two days after. But the night market was a bit under my expectation. I didn’t try out as much as possible.
大东夜市,只在周一、二、五营业。可我到达的当天就去了,正值星期六。吃了碗闭门羹。两天后我又骑着单车去了趟,实际的感受是大东夜市有一些低于预期。我也并没有尽我所能吃遍整个夜市。

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I walked past a few pubs, but it was surprising me that most of them were almost empty. That was 9-10pm on weekends.
我经过一些pub,令我不解的是,从外面看进去,里面大多数都是空的,空无一人的那种。而彼时是周末的晚上9-10点。

Hayashi is an old school department store founded by a Japanese merchant 80 years ago. These years, retailing stores have been facing overwhelming impact by the ecommerce. Ecommerce offers far more models and styles from worldwide boutiques. The only reason that young generations are willing to go to the department store is the unique experience that can not be offered from the internet. You can get snacks, accessories with kind of unique designs, café and experiencing some history here.
林百货是一家老式的百货商场,80年前由一位日本商人林方一投资建设。这些年,实体零售店面临了来自电商的史无前例的挑战。电商网站集中了世界各地的精品店,提供了比单一实体零售店远远更多的品牌以及款式。年轻人愿意去百货商场的唯一原因,我想便是体验一些在互联网上无法得到的独特的消费体验。在林百货,你能买到零食、独特设计的小配件、咖啡厅,还能感受一下这里的历史。

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Okinawa 冲绳

Two days before departing to Okinawa, I saw the news on TV where I was buying fried chicken. It said new super typhoon ‘Trami’ was slowly approaching Taiwan or Japan. That was just two weeks after the strongest typhoon during the past 30 years ‘Mangkhut’ attacked Hong Kong, and less than a month right after the strongest typhoon during the past 25 years ‘Jebi’ attacked Japan. But its direction was unpredictable at that time, I didn’t care that much until the night I arrived Okinawa.
在出发前往冲绳前的两天,我在卖盐酥鸡的店铺里的电视中看见了一则新闻,说是超强台风‘潭美’正缓慢靠近台湾/日本。那时距离30年来最强的台风‘山竹’袭击香港后仅仅两周时间,距离25年来最强台风‘飞燕’袭击日本后不到一个月。那时台风的走向尚未明确,直到我抵达冲绳之前对此都不以为然。

The flight was on time, but I received message from the organizer who arranged diving trips for me in Okinawa. He said all the upcoming trips would be cancelled.  >_<|||
航班准点到达,下机后我立刻收到一条来自冲绳潜水行程组织方的短信,被告知后面几天的行程因为台风的关系将被全部取消。

So that is why I call this trip Typhoon Chasing. 因此我才把这次行程成为是‘追风之旅’

Actually I went to Okinawa for the ocean as I saw some gorgeous photos from my friends’ instagram.
可我实际上是因为看见朋友在instagram上分享在冲绳拍摄的惊艳图片,才动了想去的念头。

This was the first time I’d been to Japan. The first impression was ‘Clean’. I knew this before, but when I got there, I was still impressed.
这也是我第一次去日本,第一印象是‘干净’,虽然我之前就已经知道,但直到我抵达的那一刻,还是觉得令我印象深刻。

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First dinner on arrive. The trotter (pic 2) tastes really amazing. This was the best trotter I’d ever had. Sea grape is also one of my favorite food.
到达后的第一餐。图2的猪手真是我吃过的最最好吃的猪手,那松软的口感,不是美食评论家我真是无法用更优美的词语来形容。海葡萄也是我超爱的食物之一。

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Sea grapes, ramen noodles, and vegan steak.
海葡萄,拉面,素食牛排

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The first day @Naha. I was so attracted to Okinawa glasses. It is one of the best known products in Okinawa. It looks so delicate.
第一天在那霸,我即被冲绳的玻璃杯深深地吸引了。玻璃杯作为冲绳最出名的特产之一,看起来也精致无比。

There is a Salt shop at Naha. It sells all kinds of salt around the world. The best selling is definitely Okinawa made salt. I planned but eventually couldn’t get a chance to have a look in it because of Typhoon Trami so I was trapped in the hotel on last day. The more regretful is I didn’t buy that glass in 4th pic.
在那霸,有一间盐专门店,卖世界各地的盐,当然店中最畅销的还是冲绳当地的海盐。我原本计划在那霸的最后一天再进去细探个究竟,谁知道最后一天因为台风潭美而被迫关在酒店,打乱了原本的计划。最最遗憾的是我没有机会买到图4中的玻璃杯。

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The next day I was moving to Chatan (北谷町 near American Village). So I took one-hour bus to get there. Bus is expensive and much less frequent in Okinawa . I didn’t even know how to pay for the first time. It was embarrassing that I didn’t have enough changes for the whole trip. The bus driver could barely speak any English at all , but fortunately he helped me exchange 10,000 JPY with the integrated exchange terminal.
冲绳的第二天,我搬去距离美国村不远的北谷町。从那霸搭乘巴士过去大约一小时车程。在冲绳,巴士真是既低频又昂贵的选择。我第一次搭乘巴士竟不知如何付车费。尴尬的是到站后我没有足够的零钱支付车资,而巴士司机几乎是一句英文也听不懂。但所幸是他帮助我在车上的兑换机上换了1万日元的零钱。

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Chatan is close to the sea. It looks so gorgeous. The vision is pretty open and all the landscape is in your eye.
北谷町靠海,视野很宽阔,迷人的风景尽收眼底。

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Those days before the Typhoon landed, the weather was cloudy and windy everyday. I honestly didn’t feel excited to go anywhere. I slowed down my pace and walked to visit a few places: Cape Manzamo, Ryukyumura, Glasses Studio.
台风登陆的那些天,几乎每天都是多云和大风。老实说我实在是提不起兴趣去任何地方。我只是放慢了脚步,步行去了一些地方:万座毛,琉球村,玻璃工房

 
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A few hours before ‘Trami’ was landing, I went to Cape Maeda alone, to feel the typhoon. It is a cliff, the wind was so strong that my camera was almost blown away. And I couldn’t stand still either.
台风登陆前的几小时,我独自前往真栄田岬,感受一下台风的威力。站在悬崖峭壁边,那风力强到几乎要把我的相机吹走。而我又何以独善其身呢?我也无法保持站着不动

 
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